Ghani Khamma Udaipur!
11th August, 2021
The melodic sounds of a sarangi being played somewhere as the sun rose steadily behind the verdant Aravalli hills. The horizon was splashed with a glorious palette of colors and gentle breezes blew over the tranquil waters of the Lake Pichola. I could feel my spirits soaring and my heart gladdening even as I tried my best to fully capture in my mind’s eye, my first moments in this ethereal city. Words can never do complete justice, it was almost like an awakening of all my senses.
British administrator James Tod used to call Udaipur “The most romantic place in India”. And why ever not? After all, this beautiful “City of Lakes” is like a book, the pages of which are filled with thousands of fascinating tales. Still reverberating with the echoes of a resplendently royal past, Udaipur is the historic capital of the Kingdom of Mewar and one of India’s most popular tourist destinations. Speaking for myself, I’ve been to Udaipur twice and consider the time that I’ve spent there grossly inadequate to ever be able to truly appreciate its beauty. You see, it’s not just the majestic Rajput-era palaces, passionate Mand music, delectable Mewari cuisine and wonderful aa o bhagat aka hospitality of the people that attract me, it’s the very soul of this intriguing city that I find so irresistible.
Getting to Udaipur is simple enough, it’s well connected by rail and air with most major cities of India. And although it is one of Rajasthan’s largest cities, it still manages to retain a charming “small-town” vibe. Of course, one trip is never enough to see every little hidden treasure that this intriguing city has to offer but it’s a good idea to go with a well-structured itinerary since you certainly don’t want to miss “must-dos” like The City Palace (there’s a lovely café just outside where you might want to stop for lunch), The Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace, Jagmandir, Saheliyon ki Baari and The Taj Lake Palace which was the former Jag Nivas. Now, I don’t think the Taj Lake Palace allows visitors without a hotel booking but I think you can go for a meal to one of their restaurants as also a guided historical tour around the heritage property. Do check though before going since their policy might have changed since I visited.
Now we all know that Udaipur is known as “The City of Lakes”, the most famous of which is Lake Pichola. While there are many ways in which you can enjoy the serenity of this lovely lake, you must keep one of your evenings free for a sunset boat ride on its languid waters. The lake is flanked by heritage mansions and palaces on all sides and you will be able to see sparkling reflections of the magnificent structures on the glittering waters of the lake after sunset. We were lucky enough to be there just as the lights of a thousand diyas suddenly lit up the imposing Jagdish Mandir and the lakeshore rang out with the euphonious chorus of the evening arti. It was an experience I will always remember, in fact, perhaps the most memorable one from my trip there. Of course, the only exception to that is the authentic Rajasthani thali we indulged in one evening for dinner. Complete with the most delectable local delicacies (my favourite was the Laal Maas, Garlic Chutney and Bajra Roti), it is sacrilege to go to Udaipur and not treat yourself to a Rajasthani thali at least once.
For those of you who know me well, it should come as no surprise that I never consider a trip to be complete without at least a full day set aside for shopping. Of course when we’re talking about a shopper’s paradise like Rajasthan, a day is never enough. In fact, I have to say that I’ve seen many a self-confessed shopaholic go almost a little crazy when it comes to shopping anywhere in Rajasthan. Udaipur is no exception, it’s an out-and-out treasure trove of vibrant handicrafts, extraordinary curios and glorious silverware so do slot some time out for a spot of shopping. I remember our taxi driver took us to this quaint little shop on top of a hill (unfortunately I can’t remember the name) where we picked up some truly eye-popping things including an antique silver plated dessert service and the most beautiful, ornate table runners perfect for formal dinners at home. Of course if you don’t have the time to plan a separate shopping expedition, you could try and stop in at the City Palace Complex which houses an entire fleet of shops including Aashka, a luxury lifestyle boutique owned by Princess Bhargavi. It’s a great place to pick up presents for family and friends, in fact, I was looking for a present for a fussy aunt when I chanced upon something rather interesting. It was a handbag but not just any old handbag. In fact, it was a limited edition one, complete with glossy, multicoloured pictures of horses on it. I’d never seen anything like it before and when I asked the salesperson about it, he informed me that the princess is an ardent polo enthusiast. Needless to say I bought the bag since I wasn’t likely to find another like it again.
And now for something very, very important, something that you just cannot miss. Whatever else you do, do not forget to make a quick stop at a music store. You see, local Rajasthani folk music has a special haunting, almost seductive, quality to it and you want to be able to take a piece of that back with you. I was lucky because after I admired the local folk music playing in our car, our very kind driver was sweet enough to present me with half a dozen CD’s of local folk music just before I boarded my flight back to Delhi. In fact, as long as we’re still on the subject of music, when anywhere in Rajasthan, try and take in a Ghoomar performance if you can. There’s really something extremely elegant and graceful about this Rajasthani folk dance originally performed by the local Bhil tribe as a form of worship to Goddess Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom and knowledge. Trust me, it’s a treat for the senses.
I suppose you now know that the city of Udaipur holds a special place in my heart. I guess it’s difficult to explain exactly how and when I got enchanted with its ethereal beauty but suffice it to say that despite visiting it twice, I would never pass on an opportunity to once again see the glorious sunrise and sunset over Lake Pichola. I so wish that time comes soon and I hope you get an opportunity to experience the wonders of the “City of Lakes” as well. Until then…..Khamma Ghani!